A Tasmanian man has turned three decades of big-wave surfing into two books that showcase Tasmania’s raw ocean power and aim to inspire the next generation of adventurers.
Clifton Beach resident Marti Paradisis has released “When The Ocean Awakens”, a coffee table book featuring first-hand stories from surfers who’ve tackled some of the world’s most dangerous waves off Tasmania’s coast.
“I wanted to take the reader on a journey into our world, capturing almost three decades of big-wave surfing history in Tasmania,” Paradisis said.
“The majority of people won’t ever experience or understand what it’s like to surf these waves.”
The book chronicles pioneering adventures including first surfs at Pedra Branca, a mythical wave 30 kilometres off Tasmania’s south coast that breaks over reef in 120-metre-deep water.
“That’s what we consider one of the most dangerous waves in the world,” he said.
“It’s complete raw ocean with nothing to stop it, and it doesn’t break perfectly.”
Paradisis said the book captures near-death experiences and the mental challenges of big-wave surfing, not just the physical skill required.
“You’ve got to push aside the fear and anxiety that comes with seeing big swells on the horizon,” he said.
“You need a good team and you’re nothing without your team.”
His children’s book “Lenny The Shredder” tells the story of a young surfer on the Tasman Peninsula, inspired by Paradisis’s childhood fishing trips with his fisherman father.
“Lenny was created to inspire kids to step outside, explore and connect with the world around them,” he said.
“I wanted something that inspired curiosity and respect for wildlife while bringing ocean awareness and safety messages.”
Both books celebrate Tasmania’s wild coastline and the adventure required to reach quality surf breaks around the state.
“You really have to do a two or three-hour drive followed by an hour walk, or go on a journey by boat around headlands to get where you need to go,” Paradisis said.
He sells both books at Salamanca Market on Saturdays and plans more children’s books in the Lenny series.
To order the books online go to www.saltyminds.com.au.
